Anna Harvey
Anna Harvey is an eco textile scientist and is about to take on the role of Material Developer for NIke. During her PhD she set up a network of designers, businesses and organisations focusing upon social and environmental sustainability in the textile and fashion industry. The RITE group organises an annual conference bringing all these people together. Anna is one of the Noisemakers and has written a green guide to looking goodWhat do you consider is the biggest issue facing the fashion industry today?
I totally agree with Tamsin, sustainability is really important for the future of the textile and fashion industry. I believe that the key to reducing the industries environmental impact lies with science and engineering innovation. The understanding of science and the role it plays in moving fashion forward needs far greater exploration.
What first got you interested in the science of fashion?
During my undergraduate degree at the University of Leeds in Textile Manufacturing, my final year project focused on reducing the environmental impact of harmful chemicals used in the dying process by replacing one chemical with a natural sugar. The project was successful and there is no reason why the process could not be implemented in manufacture to reduce the impact of the commercial dyeing process. I would really like to see this type of academic project convincing manufacturers to use more economic and environmentally friendly options. I am determined to use my scientific knowledge to make a difference in the fashion industry.
Who do you consider to be your greatest inspiration?
Four companies/people really inspire me:
David Hieatt: David of Howies fame reminds me that innovation can make the biggest difference. Questioning the normal is something that will really help the future of the industry.
Kate Fletcher: Kate is a friend of mine and an Eco Textile Design Consultant. She really grasps the importance of combining Art and Science when designing clothes and textiles for the future.
Nike Inc: Nike is a corporate company with a history of bad press on ethical issues. What is less well known is the recent positive changes they have made to achieve a more ethical and environmentally friendly production process. Ok they are not perfect, but for such a large company they are really showing that it is possible to change bad habits.
Lenzing Fibres: not only do they make what I think is the most eco friendly fibre (Tencel) they use water from a river to supply their factory in Austria. When they return the water to the river it is just as pure as it was before they used it. Waste products from the fibre are used to make mints, yes it's true!
What do you consider is the greatest barrier to success in the sustainable fashion industry?
Getting designers to understand and take into account the importance of the textile engineering and manufacture process. Getting retailers to think outside the box and encourage all their suppliers to change their habits. Persuading consumers to buy less but better quality, by helping them to understand the issues facing the industry.
Do you think the industry should be considering a shift back to UK manufacturing?
The general impression seems to be that textile manufacturers no longer exist in the U.K; there was a decline in the late 20th century – however, the current industry is very strong and growing steadily. Most manufacturing is of high technology products and highly innovative textiles. To combine economic growth and and sustainability we need to think of ways in which we can manufacture more in the UK. A great example of this is a small Yorkshire based company Makepiece. They use fleeces from their own sheep to manufacture beautifully designed woollen garments.
Do you think major UK retailers are beginning to take on board the social & environmental issues surrounding fashion and act on them?
Fortunately most retailers are starting to realise they need to act on these issues, although it frustrates me to see organisations jumping on the bandwagon without addressing the real problem from the core of their business. Retailing a line of organic cotton t-shirts is not a solution in itself, there are other issues to address, for instance Polyester one of the most widely used fibres in the world, is made from oil and it is fact that oil supplies are running out. Producing a product that replaces polyester needs innovation and research which takes time to develop; these are the kind of long term investments required to really move the industry forward.
What advise would you give to anyone setting up a fashion business?
Whatever business you are planning to set up it is important to set out with a clear environmental plan running through your entire business proposal – even if you don’t use the eco/ethical angle in your marketing this approach is essential if your new business is going to have longevity. The best advice I can give is to think of clothing design in terms of style rather than fashion. Not only will you never tire of your stylish, good quality clothes but more importantly they will have re-sale value for second-hand shops – reusing clothes is the most effective environmental saving.
